When I think about universal makeup staples, nothing stands out more than a deep brown lip liner. It can be used to contour the lips, creating a fuller look when paired with a complexion-complementing nude lipstick, or to add dimension to a striking red lip. Even when worn simply, with a clear gloss, a good brown lip liner can steal the show.
But it isn’t just an essential makeup item—it’s an iconic one. In the ‘90s, supermodels like Iman and Naomi Campbell solidified brown lip liner as a classic look. The trends may have shifted over the years, but the sentiment has remained the same. No makeup bag is complete without brown lip liner. But finding a flattering shade isn’t always easy. While the selection has become more diverse, rich brown colors, favorable for deep complexions, can be hard to track down.
That’s when having an expert eye comes into play. Ahead, we spoke with makeup artists Todd Haris and Eddie Duos, who shared everything from how to shop for and apply brown lip liner. They even told us how to make it work for two-toned lips.
Finding Your Perfect Match
It’s probably no surprise that undertones are the key to securing the right lip liner shade. Cool, warm, and neutral tones under the skin help determine the hues that work best with your skin tone. But nailing down your ideal brown lip liner shade works differently. As Haris explains, shopping for a brown liner is similar to finding your perfect contour color. “You don’t want a pencil to match your lips but one that is instead two shades darker than your skin tone,” he says.
Brown lip liners are often used to contour the lips, adding shadows that create dimension. Duos, makeup artist and Make Up For Ever educator, says that opting for a color deeper than your natural lip line helps you to achieve a stronger, more defined look. For those who prefer a softer look, he suggests a neutral or slightly warm brown. “These shades will appear more seamless and natural while still giving you decent color payoff.
How to Apply Brown Lip Liner
Application techniques vary depending on the depth of the shade and how defined you want your lips to look. “The deeper the brown liner is compared to your skin tone and natural lip color, the more precise the application needs to be,” says Duos. This look isn’t about altering or distorting your natural lip shape. Instead, it’s meant to enhance and refine it, which means accuracy is essential. “Before you apply, be sure you’re starting with a freshly sharpened pencil. This will help you lightly sketch the shape just outside your natural lip line,” says Haris. “Use short, thin strokes to line your lips, then refine the edges by blending the line slightly inward,” says Duos. This can be done with your finger, or, as Haris suggests, a lip brush for a more precise, softened look.
Two-toned lips are common with melanated skin, but they don’t have to be a challenge. According to Duos, there are two very effective approaches for applying brown lip liner. “The lighter portion can be an advantage because you can add color and diffuse it into the deeper areas, creating a natural pouty look,” he says. If the difference in shades is dramatic, you can use the second approach and add concealer to the lips first. “This method evens the tone so you can layer your lip combo on top. Just be sure to lightly set the concealer with a bit of powder first,” says Haris.
Melanin-friendly Brown Lip Liners
